Goodbye India, Hello Bollywood

I have been storing up mental lists of things I love about India – and things I won’t miss at all. I’ll share these lists as my farewell to an … Continue Reading →


Temple Caves

  Shivaji S. and his wife arrived at my hotel Saturday morning, bearing a single red rose, to see me off. Shivaji spoke no English, and I spoke no Marathi, … Continue Reading →


Shahu and the Shankaracharya

My two full days in Kolhapur proved fascinating, as I met historians, university faculty and students. Girish first took me to visit the New Palace, which is part museum and … Continue Reading →


Ancient Gods and Modern Men

I arrived in Kolhapur yesterday, but my laundry did not. This was the first real glitch in my travels. I’m finding that it is the small things that are most … Continue Reading →


Monument to Love

We arrived in Agra at night, craning our necks for a possible view of the Taj Mahal. We pointed and gawked when, over a high wall, we spotted a large, … Continue Reading →


Gringos on Parade

Our visit to Karauli allowed us to look through a kaleidoscope at multiple, parallel Indias. Where Delhi and Jaipur are mostly modern cities with historical landmarks visited by tourists and … Continue Reading →