Author: Katharine

I have been storing up mental lists of things I love about India – and things I won’t miss at all. I’ll share these lists as my farewell to an … Continue Reading →

  Shivaji S. and his wife arrived at my hotel Saturday morning, bearing a single red rose, to see me off. Shivaji spoke no English, and I spoke no Marathi, … Continue Reading →

My two full days in Kolhapur proved fascinating, as I met historians, university faculty and students. Girish first took me to visit the New Palace, which is part museum and … Continue Reading →

I arrived in Kolhapur yesterday, but my laundry did not. This was the first real glitch in my travels. I’m finding that it is the small things that are most … Continue Reading →

We arrived in Agra at night, craning our necks for a possible view of the Taj Mahal. We pointed and gawked when, over a high wall, we spotted a large, … Continue Reading →

Our visit to Karauli allowed us to look through a kaleidoscope at multiple, parallel Indias. Where Delhi and Jaipur are mostly modern cities with historical landmarks visited by tourists and … Continue Reading →

Jaipur is a bazaar for the senses: a cacophony of horns, the bleat of goats, and the singing of the muezzin from the minaret of a nearby mosque; bright saris … Continue Reading →

Delhi has proven fascinating and not as overwhelming as I’d expected. I hired a taxi through the hotel on Monday and went to see the Purana Qila (Old Fort), the … Continue Reading →

Today I’d planned to visit the Purana Quila and its archaeology museum in Delhi, as well as the national Craft Museum. But after unexpected fog delayed our arrival in Dubai … Continue Reading →